One of the top questions visitors have is which island to stay on in Bocas del Toro. Each island has its own unique charms and you can’t really go wrong, but they do differ quite a bit. Any accommodation in the area covered by the white oval below will be within 10 minutes or so of Bocas Town.

Isla Bastimentos is home to Old Bank, the second-largest town in the archipelago, and some of the most famous beaches and attractions in Bocas del Toro. Old Bank is a charming and authentic local Caribbean village. It’s a great place to get away from the heat and dust in town and experience the islands among locals. Nearby Wizard Beach is a massive white sand cove backed by jungle that you can walk to from Old Bank in 20 minutes. The best part? You’ll almost always have most of it to yourself. By boat (or longer hike) you can reach Red Frog Beach, with excellent beach cafes, swimming, surfing, and a pool club. Polo Beach is one of the jewels of the islands. It’s almost a mile long and is protected by a massive reef you can snorkel on. The Zapatillas, Nivida Bat Caves, Cayo Coral, and Punta Vieja can also be found on Bastimentos. A water taxi to Bocas Town takes 10 minutes and is $5.

Isla Colon is home to Bocas Town. It’s where you’ll find the airport, the bank, government offices, the widest variety of shops and restaurants, and the biggest crowds. If you plan to go out most nights, it might be most convenient to stay in Bocas Town (though you can get to town and back via water taxi 24 hours a day for $5 to most destinations). Bluff Beach and Starfish Beach are located on Isla Colon and are most easily visited by shuttle bus from Bocas Town.

Isla Carenero is a small island located between Isla Colon and Isla Bastimentos. You can circumnavigate it on foot in about an hour, and there are great calm swimming beaches with bars and cafes to be found along the shore. The chitras (sand fleas) can be an issue at sunset, but it’s a lovely little island and we highly recommend at least a visit.

Isla Solarte is across from Bocas Town and Isla Bastimentos. Solarte has fantastic reefs and mangroves, and is our go-to for snorkeling. There are some great hotel options, and we recommend that all our guests at least visit Solarte by checking out the Blue Coconut or Hospital Point. Going out to eat requires a water taxi as there isn’t a “town” on Solarte.

Islas Cristobal and Popa are farther out. Most accommodation on these islands is full board or self-catering and transportation to and from Bocas Town will be infrequent and/or expensive. These are great options for those looking for more of a “retreat,” though there are retreat options on Isla Colon and Bastimentos as well.

WHAT TO EXPECT IN OLD BANK

We built the Sea Monkey on the edge of the local village of Old Bank on Isla Bastimentos because our best travel memories are of staying in local villages or neighborhoods rather than in tourist enclaves. That being said, it's not for everyone.

Old Bank doesn't have any mega-resorts or chain businesses. What it does have is plenty of Caribbean charm, natural beauty, and cultural diversity. Old Bank is the real deal. It's far less touristy than Bocas Town and provides guests with the chance to mingle with local residents rather than only other travelers (though there are plenty of opportunities for that, as well). There are multiple restaurants and bars out over the water and in the jungle up the hill from the center of town, and beautiful views from just about everywhere!

We love Old Bank for its cultural diversity and because it allows us to be a part of a local Panamanian Caribbean community. This is a developing country, however. If you are not comfortable staying at the edge of a diverse village in which there is a wide variety of living standards, it may not be for you.

You will definitely hear our neighbors' chickens crowing and possibly music coming from the overwater bars in town on weekends and during holiday periods. You will also have the opportunity to meet plenty of locals if you would like to, which most of our guests consider a highlight. If you usually prefer large resorts with 24-hour staff in areas that are cordoned off for tourists, however, it may not be the right fit.

Old Bank has paved sidewalks through town and dirt tracks through the jungle. There are no roads and all travel is by foot or by boat, which is one of the reasons we love it so much.

There is no bank or ATM, though there are several Bocas Town a short water taxi ride away.

Bastimentos is a remote island with limited resources. We do everything we can to provide as many comforts as possible, but power outages do occur, as do water shortages. As such, we ask that guests be mindful of their water use (nothing draconian; just no 45-minute showers!). We provide WiFi. It is pretty reliable, but we are on a remote island, so it can be slower than you may be used to at times. 

Panama is a developing country and Isla Bastimentos is one of its more remote areas, which means that the island is not at the global forefront of refuse processing. Trash disposal is a challenge here and there are limited facilities for recycling. We work with local community leaders on trash cleanup initiatives and have seen drastic improvements over our decade here.

Old Bank isn't for everyone, but those who appreciate what it has to offer come back over and over (or move here)! Our local community is warm and friendly. A smile and a “hello” can often lead to a new friendship here.

*A special note on holidays: Old Bank is tranquil and quaint most of the time, but it can also be pretty festive during the major Panamanian holidays and over Christmas and New Year. We are at the far edge of town, but on some holidays it can be noisy due to the Caribbean love of a good party. You can always check with us to see whether any holidays fall during your stay.